Situated 195km east of Guizhou's capital, Guiyang, Kaili is the gateway to literally thousands of minority villages. It is the capital of the Southeast Guizhou Miao & Dong Nationalities Autonomous Prefecture. An estimated 65% of the local population of 420,000 people consists of minority groups. At Kaili's Sunday market in the west of the town, you get a feel for the diversity of the area, as hundreds of traders from nearby villages descend on the town.

While Kaili has developed into a relatively uninspiring place, the surrounding villages have retained their original culture and charm. There are many minority villages that can be visited as day trips from Kaili which allow opportunities to wander around the countryside, explore the traditional wooden villages, watch the everyday life of the locals, and see their colourful costumes.

Matang is an interesting Gejia minority village, located 18km north of Kaili. The Gejia, although classified as Miao in the list of China's 56 minority groups, are in fact a separate group with their own language and costume. Matang village is famous for the art of batik. Gejia women begin to learn the ancient craft of wax printing at the age of eight or nine. By their adult years, they are skilled at batik, petit point and embroidery.

Shidong is a small Miao village about 1.5 hours to the north-east of Kaili, situated on the banks of the Qingshui River. It is worth a visit year round for its inexpensive silverware and embroidery and for the town market, which is held every six days. However, it is best known for its role as the host of the the Sisters' Meal Festival, held on the 15th of the third lunar month. Once a local affair which provided opportunities for Miao men and women to meet, this festival has now become a major tourist attraction. However, it is worthy of the attention it receives, providing a dazzling display of local dress, and alot of good fun including bullfighting, horse racing, singing and dancing competitions and even beauty contests!

Xijiang, located 75km to the south-east of Kaili in the folds of the Leigong Hills, is a collection of 12 villages with over 1200 households and 6000 people. As well as its size and scenic beauty, Xijiang is famous for its silverware, weaving and spinning. 99% of the village population belong to the Miao minority. The residential houses are all wooden, with phoenixs and dragons carved on the window and doorframes in traditional styles. Several lively festivals including the Harvest Celebration, the Miao New Year Festival and New Rice Tasting Festival are celebrated in this town.

Kaili is home to over 100 festivals every year. These include bull fights, dragon boats, horse races, and Lusheng dancing. The costumes at these festivals, especially those of the young women with their sparkling silverware are a spectacular sight. If you're coming to this area, it's worth checking the festival schedule in advance and planning accordingly.

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Ricefields around Kaili

Kaili festival girls

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